moss skirt + sleeveless button up

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I’ve made a lot of Moss Skirts in my day — the pattern takes about a yard of fabric and sews up really quick. After making my first one a few years ago, I saw how easily it fit into my wardrobe and I ended up making a bunch more. I still wear that first skirt almost weekly, and I have three others in regular rotation.

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When I received my Rifle Paper Co. fabric order last month, I was so excited that I cut into it right away. I had ordered the rayon in two colors, but I kept seeing the canvas pop up online… so I ended up placing another order for some of that. I am usually fairly restrained when it comes to buying fabric (I feel like Dan wouldn’t agree with me about this but he doesn’t KNOOOW the struggle) — I don’t really buy too much in one trip and I tend to give my purchases a lot of thought. That said, I couldn’t resist getting this canvas (I only got one yard!), and I knew the Moss Skirt was the perfect pattern. It would get a lot of wear and it would definitely fit.

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As far as construction details go, I usually sew a size 4 even though my measurements put me in a size 6 — the skirt is designed to sit on your hips, but I like my skirts to sit a bit higher on my waist. I do use smaller seam allowances on the side seams to give myself a lillll’ more room there. All of the seams were serged and topstitched with a pretty olive green thread, and I added belt loops (snagged from the Ginger Jeans pattern). I like to use up leftover scraps for my facings, so here I used some dark chambray that looks really nice next to the floral print.

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Metal zippers are an easy way to make a garment look more professional and they’re not any harder to sew than plastic ones. My fly-front went in really easily — I love how it looks and it feels oddly satisfying to zip.

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I used one of my favorite prints by Rae Ritchie for Dear Stella for the pocket linings. Her collections are printed on a soft cotton shirting that really does work well for garments or quilting — I’ve sewn with it for both!

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I really like mixing pattern in my outfits, so up top I’m wearing my newest McCall’s 7351 sleeveless button up in a navy Japanese gingham. The Archer Button Up is typically my go-to pattern for this sort of thing (I’ve made maybe five for myself), but for a sleeveless version I appreciate the cup sizes in this McCall’s pattern as well as the bust darts. This is actually a dress pattern but it’s easy to modify into a sleeveless shirt. You can see another one I made in this post — all of the construction details are the same. Except I did remember to bump my square shoulder adjustment up to 1/2″ for this, wahoo!

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I must say, I’m pleased as punch with the plaid matching on this guy. These button bands are separate pattern pieces so I made extra-sure they not only matched across the shirt, but also that they maintained the gingham pattern.

Yup, another photo of the gingham-matching.

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I had some fun with the hidden details. I used a Robert Kaufman lawn, left over from a dress I made last year, for the inner yoke. I freakin’ love mustard/gold and navy together.

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And for the under collar I used some Liberty scraps left over from a dress I made earlier this summer. These details make me so happy.

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Okay that’s it! I’ve got some fancier sewing up next for ya.

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tania culottes + lou box top

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When I moved to Philly last month, Dan got me a bike for my (belated) birthday. Scootin’ around town has been really fun (and a little scary as I learn how to not die on the city streetz), but I’ve learned that there are quite a lot of items in my closet that are decidedly not bike-friendly — I’m looking at you, my many Moss Skirts.

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One garment that’s actually worked really well for biking, though, is Megan Nielsen’s Tania Culottes pattern. I made my first pair of these back in January and then proceeded to become obsessed with them. Like everyone else who’s made these, I loved that they looked like a full circle skirt but were actually shorts. Little did I know how useful that would be for me now that I’m a biker giiirl.

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Of the three pairs I’ve made so far, these are my favorite. I used a beautiful silk crepe de chine that I fell in love with one afternoon while visiting Mood last year. It’s a periwinkle color that looks a little bit more purple or blue depending on the lighting, and it has a lovely, light drape. I prewashed and dried this in the washing machine, and the only thing that changed was that the fabric lost its sheen, which was fine (and maybe even preferable) with me. The waistband facing is just a piece of chambray I had in my scraps!

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I made Version 1 in a size small, but with the extra-large length (they’re quite short otherwise). The waistband is curved and it’s the perfect size and shape for my waist. I let these hang for a day or two before hemming, and the hem stretched out a ton. I think evening out and hemming these is probably my least favorite sewing activity, which is a bit unfortunate since I love the end result so much. Besides the length, I didn’t change anything else when sewing these.

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On top I’m wearing a Lou Box Top by Sew DIY. This has become my go-to tshirt pattern — I love the loose, drapey fit, especially in a rayon jersey. When I first started sewing with knits and using my serger I made a bunch of classic tshirts (like the Plantain), but I never really found myself reaching for them in the morning. This looser style is definitely what I gravitated toward when I was buying RTW, so it makes sense that’s what I’d rather put on my body now that I’m making my clothes. It’s STILL so god-dang exciting to make the things that I used to spend time searching for in stores.

AHHHH.

Okay be back soon with more sewing!