linden sweatshirt + ginger jeans

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I have to say, I’m pretty excited about this outfit – but I also have to admit, I definitely knocked off the idea for the sweatshirt. A few months ago I saw a FEELINGS sweatshirt for sale at Reformation, and it was so emblematic of my life that I couldn’t stop thinking (or talking) about it.

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Back in March-ish I made this Linden Sweatshirt (pattern by Grainline Studio), but it was a little too oversized and it had an unfortunate run-in with some red fabric yardage during a load of laundry. You actually can’t really see the strange splotches in these photos, but IRL they’re there. Anyways! This was the perfect garment to try out freezer paper stenciling my FEELINGS.

I finally got my act together last week and traced FEELINGS onto a scrap of freezer paper, carefully cutting the letters out with an exacto knife. I painted a test run on a small cut of the same fabric and used it to figure out the placement on my sweatshirt. I used Jacquard Textile Color in black, which I picked up from Mood over the summer – it worked perfectly!

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I made a size 4 , shortened the body by 2.5″ and shortened the sleeves by 1″. For garments like this I typically use a serger for all the seams except for the neckline, which I baste in place with my sewing machine/ballpoint needle/walking foot and then finish with my serger. This sweatshirt iiis a little too big, but I had enough fabric to make a replacement in a size 2 with the same modifications. Wahooo!

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Next up: my Ginger Jeans! I made these back in May and I was/am SO proud to wear’em – still. I think most people feel this way, but I still can’t believe that I MADE JEANS. I feel pretty lucky that these fit well right out of the envelope, which was probably what I was most concerned about before beginning. In anticipation of sewing jeans I read so many blog posts about crotch curves, goddamn.

There’s definitely room for improvement but I think for my first go, these are pretty spot-on. I’m pretty critical of my makes at this point, and really won’t wear them if they look too ‘homemade,’ but I always feel 100% in these guys. And I must say I’m extremely pleased with my back pocket placement!

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I made View A for the top half and View B for the legs (and pockets) in a size 8. The sizing is perfect for me, but I think next time I’m going to modify the rise. These are looow. I don’t love the spacing of the yoke in View B, so I might play around with the pattern pieces (along the lines of this tutorial).

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I’m not a huge fan of contrasting topstitching, so I was more than happy to use a pretty navy that blended in with my denim. Once these were mostly done, I chopped off 2 3/4″ at the hem – next time I’ll remove that length from the knee. You can see I’ve got some knee wrinkles going on and I think that would help there. I also have some back thigh wrinkles but I think that may be necessary ease in order to sit comfortably? The back pocket placement as-written was pretty off for my booty, but they looked great after I moved them up 3/4″. Back pocket placement is so important, dang.

The stretch denim was a lucky find in the Garment District this past spring. I love the color and they don’t stretch out too much between washings – I think in this photo they’re on their fifth or sixth wear. Also! Choosing the waistband facing and pocket fabric was really fun. I used an old Dear Stella print for the former, and one of my favorite Rae Ritchie prints for the latter. I also have a McCall’s 7351 made out of this Treetop Party fabric, it’s so gooood!

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Here I am expressing some of my FEELINGS. Shout out to my photog, Dan, for his excellent direction, as usual.

butterick 6052

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I’ve had both this pattern and fabric in my stash, with plans to use them together, for a really long time. For one reason or another this project kept moving to the bottom of my (long) sewing list, but I finally stitched it up at the end of this summer! The pattern is Butterick 6052 and the fabric is a Joel Dewberry rayon from a couple years ago.

I made a muslin in May, and saw that I needed to bring in the straps and remove some gaping in the chest. I did this by slashing and overlapping a bit (somewhere in the 3/8″-1/2″ realm?) on the center front and center back bodice pieces. I also removed 1/2″ of strap length. Other than those minor-ish details, the sizing was perfect (I’m typically a size 10 in Big 4 patterns). I didn’t love the gored skirt though – it was the right size but the tight fit wasn’t really my style~*.

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Instead of the pattern’s options, I used a pleated skirt (based loosely off of the skirt from M6696) and I love how it came out! Rayon is really the perfect fabric for this pattern – drape is clutch here, especially in those flutter sleeves. Silk would ooobviously be pretty ace, as well. I think I might use the sleeves on an Ogden Cami (pattern by True Bias) in the future. They’re fully lined and just so lovely!

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Here’s a lil’ view from the back. The invisible zip went in easily and holy cow, I love that v-neck.

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Yay! I do love this dress. I think I’m going to use my final length of Rifle Paper Co. yardage (the rayon in periwinkle) for another version of this… but not until springtime probably. Until then I’m going to get as much wear out of this as I can before it gets too cold!

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