rifle paper co pants + sleeveless button up

Here we go – it’s BLOG time! It’s been a long time coming, but now that I’m no longer blogging as part of my job it feels like the right time to do this thing. I’m Jessie – I super recently moved to Philly from Brooklyn. I started sewing four years ago while I was working at a fabric company in Soho and it has since become a huge part of my life. I try to get a little bit (or a lot) of sewing in every day and I have about one million things on my ever-growing “to make” list. Also Hayden can’t do anything (for example, start a blog) without me copying eventually. Okay, cool!

hudson pants2

I diiiid preorder some of the new Rifle Paper Co fabric a couple months ago (though I’ve never done that before) and when it arrived I’m really happy to say that I cut right into it! Our new place has a washer/dryer – after living in tiny apartments in BK for 4 1/2 years I do consider this LIVING THE DREAM – so straight into the laundry it went. I think this helped propel my urge to get started on a project right away, rather than waiting on a visit to the laundromat (which was never quite frequent enough). But I DIGRESS.

rifle rayon

I bought this navy rayon (navy? not really sure that this is a true navy), the periwinkle rayon, and one of the canvas prints (which I’ve sewn up already, more on that soon!).

hudson pants1

I made a pair of woven Hudson Pants by True Bias. I’ve made two other pairs, both of which were also woven. I mostly followed her tutorial for converting the pattern to use with wovens (it’s made for knits), but I do love the look of the pants with a cuff so I kept them. I did the same as this blog post mentions – I made my own cuff piece that was the same width as the waistband and the length of the leg opening.

hudson pants4

The first time I made these pants I went up two sizes, which was too big, so for my next two pairs I only went up one size and sewed with slightly smaller seam allowances. I also removed 1/2″ from the bottom of the legs on these and the fit is now perfect. I topstitched the waistband and cuffs – I like the look and also it keeps the elastic in place. As far as fabric goes, this rayon is really, really nice. It’s drapey and it feels substantial.

m7351 2

On top I’m wearing a recently-made McCall’s 7351 (modified into a shirt). This has become my ultimate sleeveless button up pattern – I love the bust darts and cup size options, as well as the separate button bands and collar size. I’ve also figured out the correct spacing for my buttons/buttonholes. Really cluuutch, I’m so pleased! Back when I made my first button up I used this tutorial for inserting the collar, and it’s still my favorite method.

I got this fabric years ago from my favorite now-defunct fabric shop in NYC, PS Fabrics. It’s an oxford shirting I found on the remnants rack. So sad that store is gone. I really love choosing a fun print for the inner yoke of button up shirts, it’s one of my favorite details for sure. For this one I used Constellations from Moon Garden, a new collection by Rae Ritchie for Dear Stella. If you haven’t checked out her fabric collections or artwork, you should – she’s amazing.

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I think I shaved off about 1/2″ off the shoulders and did a 3/8″ square shoulder adjustment, which I just recently realized I needed! I was noticing drag lines from my bust to my shoulders and I’m so glad I figured out what was going on there. If I’m picky, I could stand to bump it up to a 1/2″… but we’ll see if I remember to do this next time.

I definitely like the way these pants look with a more neutral top, but the day I finished sewing them I was wearing my favorite polka dot Scout Tee and I am also diggin’ that slightly-crazy pattern mixing look.

Hmm I think that’s it as far as sewing notes. I have been really into the woven ‘joggers’ look for a few months now so I’m happy I’m able to experiment and make a few pairs that feel like me. I’m not one for sewing up ~*trendy*~ garments, so I’m hoping this is something I’ll still be liking next year and on.

Thanks for reading my first blog post (!!) and I’ll be back soon with some more sewing.