foundation fabric + lakeside pajamas

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I remember meeting Shayla Wolf (of Sassafras Lane Designs) years ago at Quilt Market, when I worked at Dear Stella. When we finally met in person, I immediately realized 1) she is a kindred spirit and 2) she undoubtedly loves color.

Fast-forward five years later, and Shayla’s first fabric collection is about to hit shops! True to form, she’s created a group of designs in a range of colors spanning the rainbow. Foundation is made up of hand-drawn motifs from Shayla’s sketchbook, with a nod to her background in architecture studies. Most of the collection features rich, saturated ground colors that will brighten up any fabric stash, but she made sure to include neutral and low-volume options as well.

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I do dabble in quilting from time to time, but for this blog tour I wanted to stick to my favorite kind of sewing – garments for meeee. I don’t often use quilting cotton in my garment sewing anymore, but I do love using fun prints to make pajama bottoms. It’s important to me that I make things that I will actually use, and I definitely use pajama bottoms. The pattern I’ve been using over and over (for years!) is the Lakeside Pajamas by Grainline Studio, so as soon as I received my yardage of Foundation I knew that was the project I’d make.

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I’ve made these pajama shorts a few times now, but I perfected them this time around. First, I added 1″ in length. I like the super-short length for sleeping, but I wanted to add some length for when I’m running errands around the neighborhood. Also, the last time I made these I somehow made the bias binding too narrow. It wasn’t a huge deal but I prefer the look of slightly thicker bias tape, so I made sure to cut mine 1.25″ wide. I know some people don’t like sewing bias binding but I loooove it. And not to ~brag~ but I’m really happy with how neatly mine came out this time.

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I used 43352-4 for the shorts, a rich true blue color with fine white triangle motifs, and 43358-21 for the bias binding. The shade of grey is really lovely and I will definitely be using it here and there in other projects.

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When I was sewing these up I knew I had to give a little nod to my rainbow-loving friend, Shay. I used a charm pack she sent me and chose four colors to piece together into the waistband – I think each section is 1.5″ wide. I love how the color peeks out : )

Side note – I slept in these the night before we took photos. I had to test them out… for science. I’m happy to report these get a 10/10.

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Here’s one more pic of the inside of the waistband. I used the selvage as an inside tag – it makes me so happy to see that little detail!

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Shayla wrote all about her experience designing this collection in her kick-off blog post. I loved reading about her process and the excitement that went into creating it, and all of the projects in her Lookbook are so well done. Shayla is an amazingly talented maker, and I’m so looking forward to watching her continue to create.

I’m excited to see what you guys make with Foundation! Want to see what other peeps are making? Follow along on the Foundation blog tour:

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Schedule:

Tuesday, February 6th: Shayla Wolf | Sassafras Lane Designs

Wednesday, February 7th: Giuseppe Ribaudo | Giucy Giuce

Thursday, February 8th: Tara Curtis | Wefty Needle

Friday, February 9th: Nichole Vogelsinger | Wild Boho

Saturday, February 10th: Robin Long | Robin Ruth Design

Sunday, February 11th: Jessie Stern | Jessie Stern Sews (me!)

Monday, February 12th: Jessica VanDenburgh | Sew Many Creations

Tuesday, February 13th: Kristy Wolf | Wolf Creek Quilting

Wednesday, February 14th: Sarah Sharp | No Hats in the House

Thursday, February 15th: Nicole Daksiewicz | Modern Handcraft

Friday, February 16th: Elise Baek | Elise & Emelie

Saturday, February 17th: Kaitlyn Howell | Knot and Thread Design

Sunday, February 18th: Sarah Thomas | Sariditty

Monday, February 19th: Jo Westfoot | The Crafty Nomad

Tuesday, February 20th: Shayla Wolf | Recap

style arc tully pants + driftless cardigan

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I made my first Style Arc pattern recently! I haven’t been drawn to their patterns before (what’s with their logo?), but at the end of the summer I noticed the new Tully Pants and downloaded them right away. Style Arc’s instructions are very… light – but these came together pretty easily. The pants have a paper bag waistband with elastic, and ties at the front. I’ve made a ton of woven Hudson Pants, so I was ready to try something new!

These fit pretty well without any adjustments. The length was perfect and I love the little pleats in the front. I was surprised to not love the paper bag waist as much as I thought I would! It just makes them a little tricky to wear sometimes, depending on my top. I think I want to make another pair in black linen, but with a regular waistband and without the ties. I used Brussels Washer Yarn-Dye linen from Robert Kaufman, and it’s a really nice weight for pants like these!

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I’m also wearing a Driftless Cardigan that’s gotten a ton of wear in my closet this fall. The fabric is a light sweater knit from Fleishman’s on 4th Street, and it’s perfect for a cardigan pattern like this. I sized down from my first attempt last winter, and I decided to leave off the bottom hem band – the length was perfect with just a simple turned hem. I also left off the sleeve hem bands.

After making this, I sewed up the Blackwood Cardigan (two, actually) – I definitely think there’s room in my closet for both. They have a different fit from each other, and I’ve been reaching for both consistently. Have any of you guys tried either/both of these patterns?

This post feels a little boring but AH I love making basics! I’ve got some fun prints coming up next in my sewing queue, so hopefully I’ll be back soon with something a bit more exciting : )

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hemlock tee + lakeside pj shorts

After a teeny break while I figured out how to motivate myself to sew when it’s cold in my house, I’m happily back on the wagon and making all. the. things.

First up is this comfy cozy outfit, both of which are patterns by Grainline Studio.

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Up top is the Hemlock Tee, a free pattern when you sign up for the Grainline newsletter. A boxy long-sleeve with drop shoulders, it’s a super easy sew. I’ve had this pattern printed for a long time, but I made this for the first time last month and this is my second version. I shortened the length by ~3″, narrowed the sleeves by 1″ total, and added cuffs. I also added a split hem!

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The fabric is a soft sweater knit I picked up from Fleishman Fabrics, my local shop that I stalk on the weekends (since it’s closed by the time I get home from work). Until semi-recently I didn’t really think about sewing sweaters, and in the last month I made this and a Driftless Cardigan, both of which are getting a lot wear! Just tryna get by, one comfy outfit at a time.

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I also made these cutie pj shorts! They’re part of the Lakeside Pajama pattern, also by Grainline. I’ve only made the bottoms so far (in the summer I made this pair, which I wore all the time) and I reaaaally love the bias binding along the hem.

Also DUH I am obsessed with this fabric. It’s the Moon Phase print from the Moon Garden collection by Rae Ritchie for Dear Stella, and in case you’re wondering YES I do happen to love everything she creates. Rae’s collections are on cotton shirting which is lovely for quilting and just as lovely for garments (particularly ones that don’t require too much drape). It’s a bit finer than quilting cotton and soft!

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I’m trying to remember any particular sewing details with these pajama shorts but I’m pretty sure I just made them as-is, with no alterations. I did go up a few sizes because I’d noticed other versions out in the interwebz looking a little fitted? I wanted these guys to be loose and, you guessed it, comfy.

That’s all I’ve got for tonight, but I will be back soon with another new garment! Until then, here’s a photo where I’m pretending to be sleepy, which is really not hard for me to do since it’s a state I’m in quite frequently. Thanks, as always, to my Artistic Director for his guidance during our photo shoot.

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moss skirt + sleeveless button up

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I’ve made a lot of Moss Skirts in my day — the pattern takes about a yard of fabric and sews up really quick. After making my first one a few years ago, I saw how easily it fit into my wardrobe and I ended up making a bunch more. I still wear that first skirt almost weekly, and I have three others in regular rotation.

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When I received my Rifle Paper Co. fabric order last month, I was so excited that I cut into it right away. I had ordered the rayon in two colors, but I kept seeing the canvas pop up online… so I ended up placing another order for some of that. I am usually fairly restrained when it comes to buying fabric (I feel like Dan wouldn’t agree with me about this but he doesn’t KNOOOW the struggle) — I don’t really buy too much in one trip and I tend to give my purchases a lot of thought. That said, I couldn’t resist getting this canvas (I only got one yard!), and I knew the Moss Skirt was the perfect pattern. It would get a lot of wear and it would definitely fit.

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As far as construction details go, I usually sew a size 4 even though my measurements put me in a size 6 — the skirt is designed to sit on your hips, but I like my skirts to sit a bit higher on my waist. I do use smaller seam allowances on the side seams to give myself a lillll’ more room there. All of the seams were serged and topstitched with a pretty olive green thread, and I added belt loops (snagged from the Ginger Jeans pattern). I like to use up leftover scraps for my facings, so here I used some dark chambray that looks really nice next to the floral print.

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Metal zippers are an easy way to make a garment look more professional and they’re not any harder to sew than plastic ones. My fly-front went in really easily — I love how it looks and it feels oddly satisfying to zip.

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I used one of my favorite prints by Rae Ritchie for Dear Stella for the pocket linings. Her collections are printed on a soft cotton shirting that really does work well for garments or quilting — I’ve sewn with it for both!

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I really like mixing pattern in my outfits, so up top I’m wearing my newest McCall’s 7351 sleeveless button up in a navy Japanese gingham. The Archer Button Up is typically my go-to pattern for this sort of thing (I’ve made maybe five for myself), but for a sleeveless version I appreciate the cup sizes in this McCall’s pattern as well as the bust darts. This is actually a dress pattern but it’s easy to modify into a sleeveless shirt. You can see another one I made in this post — all of the construction details are the same. Except I did remember to bump my square shoulder adjustment up to 1/2″ for this, wahoo!

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I must say, I’m pleased as punch with the plaid matching on this guy. These button bands are separate pattern pieces so I made extra-sure they not only matched across the shirt, but also that they maintained the gingham pattern.

Yup, another photo of the gingham-matching.

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I had some fun with the hidden details. I used a Robert Kaufman lawn, left over from a dress I made last year, for the inner yoke. I freakin’ love mustard/gold and navy together.

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And for the under collar I used some Liberty scraps left over from a dress I made earlier this summer. These details make me so happy.

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Okay that’s it! I’ve got some fancier sewing up next for ya.

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