rifle paper co // mccall’s 7246

m7246_1As is usually the case for me, I’ve been ruminating on a specific woven wrap dress pattern for at least a year – McCall’s 7246 by Melissa Watson – mostly because I wanted to make an iteration of this dress from Reformation. M7246 never seemed quite right, and it took me a while to parse out exactly what I loved about the inspiration dress and the changes I’d have to make to my pattern.


I did make a muslin last weekend, using a ton of mismatched scraps from past projects, and I sort of wish I took a photo of the dress because it looked like a straight up clown costume. It definitely helped me figure out my game-plan though, and I learned that my usual McCall’s size (10) fit perfectly. The main changes I decided on were adding a ruffle, removing length, and adding some swoosh (technical term) to the skirt; narrowing and lengthening the waist ties; and adding some fullness to the sleeves.


After making my muslin, I made adjustments to my pattern pieces and then cut into the Wonderland rayon by Rifle Paper Co! Holy hecccckkk, I love this dress.

These are the changes I made to the pattern:

  • scooped out about 1/2″ from each side of the V-neck (and copied this change to the facings)
  • removed 6″ of length from the skirt pieces and redrew the side seams, adding some extra fullness
  • cut two strips, 6″ x WOF, to be used for the ruffle at the bottom
  • sewed the strips together, pressed the ruffle in half (wrong sides together) and then gathered the long strip, fitting it to the same width as the skirt bottom
  • sleeve: removed 4 1/4″ in length, and slashed/spread to add 1/2″ to the bottom width
  • made the waist ties extra narrow





Here I am being instructed to show off the ruffles:



I’m really happy with how this dress fits and looks! I think the length is perfect, and all of the details are finished off super neatly. I might experiment with a different way to finish the center front neckline in the future – the facing worked fine, but I had to topstitch them down so they didn’t flip/peek out. Would just serging and turning the edge under 5/8″ be sufficient? I feel like it should be, I’ll probably give it a try next time.

You can kiiiind of tell, but the waist tie goes through a hole in the right side seam before wrapping around your bod. I’ve seen this detail in other patterns, but I’m glad it was included here too.


And this is what happens when I’m embarrassed and tired of taking photos on the street outside my house!


Whew! Okay I think that’s it. Let me know if you’ve tried this pattern, or if you have any other woven wrap dresses that you want to try! I gotta go cut out a pair of shorteralls now, bye!


rifle paper co // butterick 6052


I’m so happy that I finally used the last of the Rifle Paper Co yardage I bought last summer! (Nevermind that I recently got some more in the mail…dang.)

I was saving this blue rayon for a dress I wanted to wear to a wedding in Hawaii last month. It was hard to motivate myself to sew a strappy, summery dress in the dead of winter, so I ended up waiting until the week before we left for our trip to finally get going. DUH. Self-imposed deadlines right before a trip – story of my life.


The pattern is one of my favorites – Butterick 6052. I used it for the first time last summer (you can check that out heeere) but I made a couple of adjustments to this version. I removed more length from the straps, an extra 1/2″ bringing it to 1″ total, and used an easy gathered skirt  + pockets on the bottom half.

I think at this point people must be sick of the cold shoulder trend, but I will never not love these sleeves.



This fabric really is so lovely to sew. It’s a little bit more substantial than other rayon I’ve worked with, but that only makes it even more fluid and drapey. I used a light cotton lawn that I had in my stash for the lining, and it worked perfectly.



Here are a few photos from the wedding in Hawaii! We were celebrating our friends Aaron and Emily – it was so beautiful and so much fun. There was a passing rain shower during the ceremony (which is why we’re all wet), but it was perfectly sweet and goofy.

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Some of my best friends and a handmade dress! Nothing better than that.

moss skirt + sleeveless button up


I’ve made a lot of Moss Skirts in my day — the pattern takes about a yard of fabric and sews up really quick. After making my first one a few years ago, I saw how easily it fit into my wardrobe and I ended up making a bunch more. I still wear that first skirt almost weekly, and I have three others in regular rotation.


When I received my Rifle Paper Co. fabric order last month, I was so excited that I cut into it right away. I had ordered the rayon in two colors, but I kept seeing the canvas pop up online… so I ended up placing another order for some of that. I am usually fairly restrained when it comes to buying fabric (I feel like Dan wouldn’t agree with me about this but he doesn’t KNOOOW the struggle) — I don’t really buy too much in one trip and I tend to give my purchases a lot of thought. That said, I couldn’t resist getting this canvas (I only got one yard!), and I knew the Moss Skirt was the perfect pattern. It would get a lot of wear and it would definitely fit.


As far as construction details go, I usually sew a size 4 even though my measurements put me in a size 6 — the skirt is designed to sit on your hips, but I like my skirts to sit a bit higher on my waist. I do use smaller seam allowances on the side seams to give myself a lillll’ more room there. All of the seams were serged and topstitched with a pretty olive green thread, and I added belt loops (snagged from the Ginger Jeans pattern). I like to use up leftover scraps for my facings, so here I used some dark chambray that looks really nice next to the floral print.


Metal zippers are an easy way to make a garment look more professional and they’re not any harder to sew than plastic ones. My fly-front went in really easily — I love how it looks and it feels oddly satisfying to zip.


I used one of my favorite prints by Rae Ritchie for Dear Stella for the pocket linings. Her collections are printed on a soft cotton shirting that really does work well for garments or quilting — I’ve sewn with it for both!


I really like mixing pattern in my outfits, so up top I’m wearing my newest McCall’s 7351 sleeveless button up in a navy Japanese gingham. The Archer Button Up is typically my go-to pattern for this sort of thing (I’ve made maybe five for myself), but for a sleeveless version I appreciate the cup sizes in this McCall’s pattern as well as the bust darts. This is actually a dress pattern but it’s easy to modify into a sleeveless shirt. You can see another one I made in this post — all of the construction details are the same. Except I did remember to bump my square shoulder adjustment up to 1/2″ for this, wahoo!


I must say, I’m pleased as punch with the plaid matching on this guy. These button bands are separate pattern pieces so I made extra-sure they not only matched across the shirt, but also that they maintained the gingham pattern.

Yup, another photo of the gingham-matching.


I had some fun with the hidden details. I used a Robert Kaufman lawn, left over from a dress I made last year, for the inner yoke. I freakin’ love mustard/gold and navy together.


And for the under collar I used some Liberty scraps left over from a dress I made earlier this summer. These details make me so happy.


Okay that’s it! I’ve got some fancier sewing up next for ya.


rifle paper co pants + sleeveless button up

Here we go – it’s BLOG time! It’s been a long time coming, but now that I’m no longer blogging as part of my job it feels like the right time to do this thing. I’m Jessie – I super recently moved to Philly from Brooklyn. I started sewing four years ago while I was working at a fabric company in Soho and it has since become a huge part of my life. I try to get a little bit (or a lot) of sewing in every day and I have about one million things on my ever-growing “to make” list. Also Hayden can’t do anything (for example, start a blog) without me copying eventually. Okay, cool!

hudson pants2

I diiiid preorder some of the new Rifle Paper Co fabric a couple months ago (though I’ve never done that before) and when it arrived I’m really happy to say that I cut right into it! Our new place has a washer/dryer – after living in tiny apartments in BK for 4 1/2 years I do consider this LIVING THE DREAM – so straight into the laundry it went. I think this helped propel my urge to get started on a project right away, rather than waiting on a visit to the laundromat (which was never quite frequent enough). But I DIGRESS.

rifle rayon

I bought this navy rayon (navy? not really sure that this is a true navy), the periwinkle rayon, and one of the canvas prints (which I’ve sewn up already, more on that soon!).

hudson pants1

I made a pair of woven Hudson Pants by True Bias. I’ve made two other pairs, both of which were also woven. I mostly followed her tutorial for converting the pattern to use with wovens (it’s made for knits), but I do love the look of the pants with a cuff so I kept them. I did the same as this blog post mentions – I made my own cuff piece that was the same width as the waistband and the length of the leg opening.

hudson pants4

The first time I made these pants I went up two sizes, which was too big, so for my next two pairs I only went up one size and sewed with slightly smaller seam allowances. I also removed 1/2″ from the bottom of the legs on these and the fit is now perfect. I topstitched the waistband and cuffs – I like the look and also it keeps the elastic in place. As far as fabric goes, this rayon is really, really nice. It’s drapey and it feels substantial.

m7351 2

On top I’m wearing a recently-made McCall’s 7351 (modified into a shirt). This has become my ultimate sleeveless button up pattern – I love the bust darts and cup size options, as well as the separate button bands and collar size. I’ve also figured out the correct spacing for my buttons/buttonholes. Really cluuutch, I’m so pleased! Back when I made my first button up I used this tutorial for inserting the collar, and it’s still my favorite method.

I got this fabric years ago from my favorite now-defunct fabric shop in NYC, PS Fabrics. It’s an oxford shirting I found on the remnants rack. So sad that store is gone. I really love choosing a fun print for the inner yoke of button up shirts, it’s one of my favorite details for sure. For this one I used Constellations from Moon Garden, a new collection by Rae Ritchie for Dear Stella. If you haven’t checked out her fabric collections or artwork, you should – she’s amazing.

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I think I shaved off about 1/2″ off the shoulders and did a 3/8″ square shoulder adjustment, which I just recently realized I needed! I was noticing drag lines from my bust to my shoulders and I’m so glad I figured out what was going on there. If I’m picky, I could stand to bump it up to a 1/2″… but we’ll see if I remember to do this next time.

I definitely like the way these pants look with a more neutral top, but the day I finished sewing them I was wearing my favorite polka dot Scout Tee and I am also diggin’ that slightly-crazy pattern mixing look.

Hmm I think that’s it as far as sewing notes. I have been really into the woven ‘joggers’ look for a few months now so I’m happy I’m able to experiment and make a few pairs that feel like me. I’m not one for sewing up ~*trendy*~ garments, so I’m hoping this is something I’ll still be liking next year and on.

Thanks for reading my first blog post (!!) and I’ll be back soon with some more sewing.