rifle paper co // butterick 6052

rifle2

I’m so happy that I finally used the last of the Rifle Paper Co yardage I bought last summer! (Nevermind that I recently got some more in the mail…dang.)

I was saving this blue rayon for a dress I wanted to wear to a wedding in Hawaii last month. It was hard to motivate myself to sew a strappy, summery dress in the dead of winter, so I ended up waiting until the week before we left for our trip to finally get going. DUH. Self-imposed deadlines right before a trip – story of my life.

rifle7

The pattern is one of my favorites – Butterick 6052. I used it for the first time last summer (you can check that out heeere) but I made a couple of adjustments to this version. I removed more length from the straps, an extra 1/2″ bringing it to 1″ total, and used an easy gathered skirt  + pockets on the bottom half.

I think at this point people must be sick of the cold shoulder trend, but I will never not love these sleeves.

rifle4

rifle5

This fabric really is so lovely to sew. It’s a little bit more substantial than other rayon I’ve worked with, but that only makes it even more fluid and drapey. I used a light cotton lawn that I had in my stash for the lining, and it worked perfectly.

rifle6

rifle1

Here are a few photos from the wedding in Hawaii! We were celebrating our friends Aaron and Emily – it was so beautiful and so much fun. There was a passing rain shower during the ceremony (which is why we’re all wet), but it was perfectly sweet and goofy.

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Some of my best friends and a handmade dress! Nothing better than that.

ginger jeans + lark tee

IMG_9238

I’ve got two very-recent projects to share today! I made a lot of time to sew after work over the last two weeks, and it felt so good. Making time for myself to sew for an hour here and there is so essential to my mental health, it’s ridiculous. I can truly feel my body and brain buzzing when I don’t have that chance to sit down at my machine. I’m so grateful to have the space and tools to make things.

ANYWAYS. Last year I made my first pair of Ginger Jeans – and while I wear them all the time aaand love them, I’ve always wanted to make another pair that had a higher rise. Heather at Closet Case Patterns recently released the Mid-Rise Gingers as a standalone PDF, and instead of drafting it myself I lazily picked up the new pattern instead. I’m not even mad that the marketing ploy worked on me because they are the PERFECT rise and I didn’t have to use my brain.

IMG_9146

I made the same size as my first pair, size 8, which is exactly right for my bod. I removed 1″ of length at the knees, though I think I could do a bit more next time (maybe 1.5″?). And I left these a little longer than last time, so I could cuff the bottom if I wanted. Other than that, I didn’t make any real modifications. Though I did get a ~little~ fancy and stitched flat felled seams along the in-seam – I feel like that makes them “real” jeans now.

Just a quick note, this a black denim from Threadbare Fabrics and it’s lovely.

IMG_9178

My regular machine does a great job sewing through denim, but remembering how the topstitching thread did not work super well last year, I decided to try out this green beaut. Holy HECK using this lil’ guy was SO MUCH FUN. An added benefit was also not having to switch out the thread every few minutes to topstitch (instead, just switching machines), which felt luxurious. I found this Singer at the Resource Exchange, an amazing store right by my office, a few months ago and couldn’t just leave it there!

green singer

Here’s a look at some of the topstitching! I prefer non-contrast thread for jeans, so it’s not super obvious, but man. Love.

IMG_9237

I’m going to share some photos of my booty now because it’s probably my favorite part of these jeans. I raised the pocket pieces 3/4″ higher than the pattern suggests, and they’re perfect (I think? at least).

IMG_9141

IMG_9191

Here I am contemplating my crotch curve… I’m just not sure about it. I know there are always going to be some wrinkles, but I’m wondering if I need to draw in a shallower curve? I don’t think the crotch length is too long or too short, which leads me to the “flat pubis adjustment” from Heather’s blog post about fitting adjustments. I do love this pair, but I’m thinking about for next time. Feel freeeee to let me know if you have any input!

IMG_9134

I also made my first Lark Tee! The pattern is by Grainline Studio, and I didn’t really feel like I needed it until recently. I love my Lou Box Top shirts (see here for one, though I’ve made about 4 or 5), but I needed a true t-shirt in my wardrobe. I sized up so it would be a bit looser, and I’m feelin’ this fit. Instead of hemming the sleeves, I rolled them up and tacked them into place.

IMG_9171

I used a Dear Stella knit, which is a great match for this pattern, and it’s so fun seeing this Scallop Dot print in a new substrate. The color is spot on, too. Such a great everyday outfit, wahoooo!

Okay bye!

IMG_9158

m7351 shirtdress

img_1464

There’s something about shirtdresses that I haven’t been able to get out of my head. I’ve made the Alder Shirtdress and McCall’s 6696 in the past, but neither of them were quite what I was envisioning. I’ve seen so many good versions out in the wild, but nothing I made fit me the way the way I wanted.

(This is an inspiration dress from Anthro that I pinned SO LONG AGO. Maybe three years ago, even.)

inspo.jpg

Last year, McCall’s released m7351 and I used it for a bunch of sleeveless button ups (see here, and here). The fit through the bust is ace and I love the size of the collar. I’m not a fan of every variation offered in the pattern, but the bodice and sleeves looked like a good match for my inspo image above.

One weekend in the fall I found a length of a loosely-woven plaid  in my stash (from my old local shop, PS Fabrics) and the timing felt right…

img_1438

Besides using my own gathered skirt and doing a 1/2″ square shoulder adjustment, I didn’t make any adjustments to the pattern. At this point I’ve made so many button ups that plaid matching shouldn’t be so exciting, but dang I’m pleased with how this turned out. Figuring out cutting the placket is such a satisfying puzzle.

img_1468

I don’t actually love the contrast inner collar, but it’s not super noticeable. And the buttons I picked up from Fleishman’s! They were supposed to be for Dan’s chambray shirt (which is still in a pile in my sewing room, oops) but I ‘borrowed’ them. It felt right!

Here’s a lil’ side view.

img_1462

I’m not sure I pull this off as well as the Anthro model does, but I do really like this! I think next I need to find the perfect loose-fitting shirtdress pattern. Maybe with a dropped shoulder sleeve.  I’m deciding between that, or another pair of woven Hudson pants, for the Euclid linen I’m holding onto…

img_1454

hudson pants + hemlock tee

hudson pants IG.jpg

I’ve been dreaming about Dear Stella knits for a loooong time (in case you’re new here, I worked at DS for five years (!) but this past August I moved to Philly). Their first run of knits is releasing next month, and I’m so excited for everyone to start sewing with them!

One of my favorites from the selection of knits is definitely Wee Gallery’s Grid print. I knew the first thing I’d make would be a pair of Hudson Pants (pattern by True Bias) in the black colorway.

IMG_1539.JPG

I love these. I have a pair in black ponte (which are also the best) but it’s nice to have a pair that are not quite as heavy. The fabric is stretchy and soft, keeps its shape and doesn’t bag out. I wouldn’t use these knits for anything super drapey, but they’re great for most other thingz. I have more plans for a dress, leggings, a Linden sweatshirt, a long sleeve shirt… As always, my eyes are bigger than my stomach (that’s a saying, right?) and my to-sew list is admittedly out of control.

Anyways, I sewed these up with no modifications other than skipping the drawstring. I could probably stand to take some length out at the knee (maybe 1/2″?) but otherwise these have a great fit. I love the pockets and the ankle cuffs! Please note: these pants are extremely comfortable.

IMG_1545.JPG

On top is a well-worn Archer Button Up (pattern by Grainline Studio). I’ve semi-recently learned that I need to make a forward shoulder adjustment to my button ups, so you can see there’s a little bit of pulling since that adjustment hasn’t been done here. I think I made this a little over a year ago, using a Robert Kaufman chambray, and it’s definitely a staple in my closet.

I alsoooo made a Hemlock Tee (free pattern by Grainline Studio when you sign up for their newsletter) in the white colorway.

IMG_1571.JPG

I narrowed the sleeves by 1″ and added cuffs. I think I also removed about an inch from the side seams. Not much else to report, besides that I think this print is just really lovely. And I’m wearing my Ginger Jeans here, which still get a lot of wear! I’m planning a new pair too – I got some stretch black denim in the mail a little bit ago…

IMG_1579.JPG

Whoo! That’s it for tonight. I’m really excited about these knits and can’t wait to see what everyone else makes with them! You can check out the other prints here, here and here. Byeeeeee.

IMG_1568.JPG

hemlock tee + lakeside pj shorts

After a teeny break while I figured out how to motivate myself to sew when it’s cold in my house, I’m happily back on the wagon and making all. the. things.

First up is this comfy cozy outfit, both of which are patterns by Grainline Studio.

IMG_1480.JPG

Up top is the Hemlock Tee, a free pattern when you sign up for the Grainline newsletter. A boxy long-sleeve with drop shoulders, it’s a super easy sew. I’ve had this pattern printed for a long time, but I made this for the first time last month and this is my second version. I shortened the length by ~3″, narrowed the sleeves by 1″ total, and added cuffs. I also added a split hem!

IMG_1482.JPG

The fabric is a soft sweater knit I picked up from Fleishman Fabrics, my local shop that I stalk on the weekends (since it’s closed by the time I get home from work). Until semi-recently I didn’t really think about sewing sweaters, and in the last month I made this and a Driftless Cardigan, both of which are getting a lot wear! Just tryna get by, one comfy outfit at a time.

IMG_1516.JPG

I also made these cutie pj shorts! They’re part of the Lakeside Pajama pattern, also by Grainline. I’ve only made the bottoms so far (in the summer I made this pair, which I wore all the time) and I reaaaally love the bias binding along the hem.

Also DUH I am obsessed with this fabric. It’s the Moon Phase print from the Moon Garden collection by Rae Ritchie for Dear Stella, and in case you’re wondering YES I do happen to love everything she creates. Rae’s collections are on cotton shirting which is lovely for quilting and just as lovely for garments (particularly ones that don’t require too much drape). It’s a bit finer than quilting cotton and soft!

IMG_1505.JPG

I’m trying to remember any particular sewing details with these pajama shorts but I’m pretty sure I just made them as-is, with no alterations. I did go up a few sizes because I’d noticed other versions out in the interwebz looking a little fitted? I wanted these guys to be loose and, you guessed it, comfy.

That’s all I’ve got for tonight, but I will be back soon with another new garment! Until then, here’s a photo where I’m pretending to be sleepy, which is really not hard for me to do since it’s a state I’m in quite frequently. Thanks, as always, to my Artistic Director for his guidance during our photo shoot.

IMG_1486.JPG

leah & will’s wedding quilt

leahwill4

This past May, one of my best friends from growing up got married! Leah was my very first friend in Montclair, and I’ve really loved getting to know Will over the last few years. They are such a great couple and it was so fun celebrating their love this past spring!

I was super excited to get started on a quilt for Leah and Will’s wedding gift. Leah loves the color coral, and I thought pulling in shades of navy and grey would make the overall palette a bit more neutral. I’ve also become obsessed with half-square triangles, and I thought that Leah and Will would appreciate the classic-ness of this design.

leahwill11

Most of the fabric is Dear Stella – a mix between in-house prints (including some serious oldies!) and designs by Rae Ritchie and Wee Gallery.  Instead of using solid white I pulled a variety of low-volume prints and I freakin’ love this look.

leahwill14

I have way more space in Philly (including an entire sewing room!) so basting this was much less painless than it was in BK. I typically use a mix between spray basting and pin basting and it worked really well with this guy.

Here I am looking like a giant.

leahwill13

Once this was pieced and basted, the actual quilting process went by pretty quickly. I really am so happy with how this turned out. Here are some close-ups!

leahwill2

leahwill3

leahwill5

When I was still at DS, Rae was working on an adorable label print – and a few weeks after I moved my former boss sent me a panel! I chose a simple lil’ label for this quilt and I think it’s so sweet. Ah!

leahwill6

Leah recently texted me a cozy photo of her drinking tea under this quilt, and it made my heart so warm! Making and giving quilts is one of my favorite FEELINGS, and seeing them being used is even better.

Anyways. Here I am lookin’ pleased as punch while Dan helped me take photos and our neighbors looked on in confused wonder.

leahwill10

linden sweatshirt + ginger jeans

feelings2

I have to say, I’m pretty excited about this outfit – but I also have to admit, I definitely knocked off the idea for the sweatshirt. A few months ago I saw a FEELINGS sweatshirt for sale at Reformation, and it was so emblematic of my life that I couldn’t stop thinking (or talking) about it.

feelings7

Back in March-ish I made this Linden Sweatshirt (pattern by Grainline Studio), but it was a little too oversized and it had an unfortunate run-in with some red fabric yardage during a load of laundry. You actually can’t really see the strange splotches in these photos, but IRL they’re there. Anyways! This was the perfect garment to try out freezer paper stenciling my FEELINGS.

I finally got my act together last week and traced FEELINGS onto a scrap of freezer paper, carefully cutting the letters out with an exacto knife. I painted a test run on a small cut of the same fabric and used it to figure out the placement on my sweatshirt. I used Jacquard Textile Color in black, which I picked up from Mood over the summer – it worked perfectly!

feelings1.jpg

I made a size 4 , shortened the body by 2.5″ and shortened the sleeves by 1″. For garments like this I typically use a serger for all the seams except for the neckline, which I baste in place with my sewing machine/ballpoint needle/walking foot and then finish with my serger. This sweatshirt iiis a little too big, but I had enough fabric to make a replacement in a size 2 with the same modifications. Wahooo!

feelings3

Next up: my Ginger Jeans! I made these back in May and I was/am SO proud to wear’em – still. I think most people feel this way, but I still can’t believe that I MADE JEANS. I feel pretty lucky that these fit well right out of the envelope, which was probably what I was most concerned about before beginning. In anticipation of sewing jeans I read so many blog posts about crotch curves, goddamn.

There’s definitely room for improvement but I think for my first go, these are pretty spot-on. I’m pretty critical of my makes at this point, and really won’t wear them if they look too ‘homemade,’ but I always feel 100% in these guys. And I must say I’m extremely pleased with my back pocket placement!

feelings4

I made View A for the top half and View B for the legs (and pockets) in a size 8. The sizing is perfect for me, but I think next time I’m going to modify the rise. These are looow. I don’t love the spacing of the yoke in View B, so I might play around with the pattern pieces (along the lines of this tutorial).

gingerjeans1

I’m not a huge fan of contrasting topstitching, so I was more than happy to use a pretty navy that blended in with my denim. Once these were mostly done, I chopped off 2 3/4″ at the hem – next time I’ll remove that length from the knee. You can see I’ve got some knee wrinkles going on and I think that would help there. I also have some back thigh wrinkles but I think that may be necessary ease in order to sit comfortably? The back pocket placement as-written was pretty off for my booty, but they looked great after I moved them up 3/4″. Back pocket placement is so important, dang.

The stretch denim was a lucky find in the Garment District this past spring. I love the color and they don’t stretch out too much between washings – I think in this photo they’re on their fifth or sixth wear. Also! Choosing the waistband facing and pocket fabric was really fun. I used an old Dear Stella print for the former, and one of my favorite Rae Ritchie prints for the latter. I also have a McCall’s 7351 made out of this Treetop Party fabric, it’s so gooood!

gingerjeans2

Here I am expressing some of my FEELINGS. Shout out to my photog, Dan, for his excellent direction, as usual.